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Celebrating Three Kings Day

Posted by Jon Beals on 1/3/2008 at 1:00 PM

By Ginger Adams Otis

The Christmas season isn't truly over until the Three Kings arrive bearing gifts — or at least show up on Jan. 6 for some traditional Rosca de Reyes, a sweetbread shaped like a wreath and topped with delicious candied fruit.

 

Statue of Duke Ellington

Statue of Duke Ellington presiding over Spanish Harlem.
© Corey Wise. Lonely Planet Images.

Jan. 6 — known in the Spanish-speaking world as El Dia de Los Reyes (Three Kings Day) — marks the moment when Three Wise Men brought presents to the baby Jesus. In the church calendar, it's referred to as the Epiphany, or the 12th day of Christmas. Unlike in Spain and Latin America, where it's a major holiday, Three Kings Day largely passes unnoticed in the U.S. — except in cities that have large Hispanic communities, mostly in the southwest and along the eastern seaboard. Just like on Dec. 25, it's a big day for gift-giving. Among Hispanic families, it's common for young kids to put hay in their shoes the night before, so the camels can have a snack while the Three Kings lay out their presents.

Where Three Kings Day is celebrated, there's usually a parade with people dressed as shepherds — and three lucky marchers are appointed as the Three Kings: Melchior, Balthazar and Gaspar. They wear gold crowns, flowing robes and carry incense to wave at the crowds. Animals are often included in the parade, an homage to the camels that carried the Three Kings across the desert. In places with a strong Native American presence, such as New Mexico, the celebrations will include indigenous art and dances. In places with strong Caribbean and Central America populations, like Miami, there will be big salsa bands and lots of spicy dancing.

El Dia de Los Reyes celebrations can go on for hours, and when parades end, there's usually an afternoon of storytelling, performance art, and of course, lots of snacking on tasty Rosca de Reyes.

If you're around Jan. 6, try to catch one of these must-see celebrations.

New York City

It's a long and winding trip through El Barrio, East Harlem's largely Puerto Rican neighborhood. Starting in front of El Museo del Barrio at 106th and Fifth Avenue, the parade goes for hours along 106th Street, into the heart of Spanish Harlem, then north along Third Avenue to 116th Street. As always, big-city celebs like Jennifer Lopez and Marc Anthony are expected to put in an appearance, and Mayor Michael Bloomberg will be marching up front. This year, the parade will actually be held on Friday, Jan. 4, starting at 10:30 a.m. and the march will include floats, bands and about 2,000 schoolchildren dressed as angels, shepherds, donkeys and camels.

Miami

Brace yourself for some heat if you're on Calle Ocho this Jan. 6 — Miami's Three Kings Day celebration is smoking hot! About 5,000 people pack this center of the Cuban community for a star-studded parade that lasts almost all day. A grand-marshal — a special honor given each year to a different local celebrity — will lead the parade along Southwest 8th Street between 4th and 27th avenues. On top of wildly costumed angels, shepherds and animals, you’ll see massive floats, courtesy of corporate sponsors like Disney, and endlessly gyrating salsa bands.

Statue of Duke Ellington

Taos Pueblo buildings at winter.
© Ralph Hopkins. Lonely Planet Images.

Taos Pueblo, N.M.

Three Kings Day celebrations abound in New Mexico, but possibly the most innovative one is in a little town about 72 miles from Santa Fe called Taos Pueblo. Mostly constructed of Native American adobe huts, Taos Pueblo is still home to a predominantly Mexican and indigenous population, and it's been inhabited continuously for more than a thousand years. The town is open for visitors daily from 8:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m., and its centerpiece is an old church — St. Joseph's — built in 1850. During the days of the Spanish Empire, Catholicism and Native American religions blended in strange and entrancing ways — as you'll see on El Dia de Los Reyes, when community leaders celebrate the gift of the Magi with a ritual dance by performers clad in deer hides, wolf skins and buffalo heads.

Goldsboro, N.C.

It's a bit unexpected to stumble across the Three Kings in rural North Carolina, but this little town has adopted the Hispanic holiday as its own in recent years. About 800 people turn out every Jan. 6 — or the proceeding Saturday, if it falls mid-week — for a day of dancing, singing and religious re-enactments. Mary and Joseph show up, seeking shelter for the birth of their baby, and shortly thereafter, who should arrive on the scene but Melchior, Balthazar and Gaspar. There are games, gifts and lots of food at this festival, which has the fun atmosphere of a town fair.

Bio: Ginger Adams Otis is a print and radio journalist in New York City, who writes for local newspapers when not on assignment in South America and the Caribbean for Lonely Planet.

Lonley PlanetThe content provided by Lonely Planet Publications, while as accurate as possible, is provided "as is." Neither we, nor Lonely Planet Publications, accept any responsibility for any loss, injury or inconvenience resulting from this information. You should verify critical information (like visas, health and safety) before you travel.

© 2007 Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. All rights reserved.
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