By Catherine Bodry

Three hours east of Seattle, off scenic Highway 2, a live polka band is playing in the center of a Bavarian village. The surrounding snowcapped peaks glitter like fairytale princess' tiaras, as rosy-cheeked shoppers waft in and out of storybook buildings.

Bavarian Village and misty mountains.
© Ann Cecil. Lonely Planet Images.

Although the line between kitschy and genuine is as hazy as the steam off a hot chocolate on a crisp winter day, Leavenworth, Wash., manages to plant itself just on the fringe of accurate. The Bavarian-modeled mountain town is so carefully planned that nary has a window escaped without a decorative shutter, and you can almost imagine yourself in the Alps.

Enjoy Leavenworth's best offerings — a small, pedestrian-friendly downtown area and a nearly seamless connection to the natural world encircling it — with an easy, romantic stroll.

Waterfront Park

The town's best-kept secret is Waterfront Park, part of a park system that connects Waterfront, Blackbird Island, Enchantment Park and Leavenworth Golf Club. Wide trails meander along the banks of the Wenatchee River and through riverside forests. Interpretive signs explain what's going on around you, and there are plenty of benches for canoodling.

Since the parks are conveniently located on the backside of Leavenworth, it's possible to begin a tour from the center of town and loop back around. To enjoy an hour-long winter wander, begin by heading west on Commercial Street near its intersection with 8th Street. Walk down a steep hill toward the river; at the bottom you'll see the trail on your left. This first part of the path follows the river, but soon forks. Take a left to the ball fields or a right to cross the bridge onto Blackbird Island (Hint: take the right).

Blackbird Island

Here, the Wenatchee River briefly parts and languidly envelopes this small area of land. Once on the island, explore the two paths that circle and bisect it. On the south side, you'll have a great view of Icicle Valley, where farmhouses emit smoke from their chimneys. Blackbird Island is also the locals' secret spot for bird-watching: during the winter, you might be treated to American kestrels or Sharp-shinned hawks in addition to honking Canada geese.

Enchantment Park

After your tour of the island, continue southwest across another bridge, which leads you straight into the enticingly named Enchantment Park. This area is the original site of the Lamb-Davis Sawmill which closed in 1926; you can still see the company's pilings in the river. Directly after crossing the bridge, note the Trout Unlimited fishing pond to your right, which is open for fishing to children most of the year.

As you continue along the path, again you'll be faced with a choice: Stick to the left to stay along the river, or take a right if you're dying for an espresso. Either way you'll end up back in town, but the trail to the right will get you to a hot drink faster. If you choose to stay with the river, look for hidden beaches as you drift along. The path will eventually curve north (don't head west onto the golf course), through ball fields and back up to town. Here you'll meet Enchantment Parkway, which is a few steps away from Commercial Street.

A Pleasant End

Although Front Street sees the most action, there are still a few windows to press your face against as you make your way back to the town's center. You might even come across a bratwurst cart or two.

If you stay on Commercial Street you'll wander through a residential part of town; note the meticulous adherence to Bavarian style in each home and guesthouse. Or walk one more block to reach Highway 2 — this route won't be as quiet an end as Commercial Street, but you'll be able to quench your appetite at Kodiak Pizza, Kristall's Restaurant and Lounge, or J.J. Hills Restaurant and Wine Bar.

Highway 2 will run into Front Street, but from Commercial you'll need to take a left on 8th Street first. From here, you'll shortly be united with shopping bliss. Everything you'd hope to find in a fantasy alpine town is here on Front Street: rich homemade chocolate, wood toys, homespun wool. You can even buy your own pair of lederhosen.

Bio: Catherine Bodry is a teacher and freelance writer living in Seward, Alaska, where there are ample opportunities for winter strolling. As a child, she spent many weekends playing in the hills around Leavenworth.

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