By David Lukas

The famous travel writer Paul Theroux once said, "Hawaii is not a state of mind, but a state of grace," and there is no better way to capture the mood of these enchanted islands. Many visitors to the islands, however, quickly plop themselves on a beach and see very little of the charm and mystique that have made the islands so famous. Don't be fooled by the small size of each island — each of these road trips will open up a treasure chest of hidden surprises.

Hamakua Ditch Trail hugging rim of Waipio Valley in Kohala Forest Reserve.
© Karl Lehmann Lonely Planet Images.

Upcountry Big Island

If you fly to the Big Island, why not get away from the maddening crowds by scooting up to the Kohala District, the least explored part of the island? In fact, why not travel along the 20-mile Kohala Mountain Road, rated one of the 10 most scenic drives in America by "Condé Nast Traveler" magazine? From Hilo you'll find the starting point of this incredibly scenic road in the cowboy town of Waimea. (Waimea now possesses the new name of Kamuela because the post office was getting confused by the number of places called Waimea on the islands.)

It's only a short drive north of town to the Kohala Mountain Lookout, one of the foremost picnic spots on the island with dramatic views of volcanoes and impossibly green rolling pastures. Check it out at sunset for stupendous views. Continuing north, cross the vast Parker Ranch, a working ranch that once sprawled over half a million acres, and descend into the artsy little town of Hawi. A right turn takes you through Kapa'au and after 6 miles to the end of the road for a stunning overlook of the Pololu Valley. Getting hungry on your return trip? Stop by Bamboo Restaurant in Hawi, considered one of the finest restaurants on the Big Island, or fill up at Merriman’s Restaurant in Waimea with some delicious fresh local cuisine like goat cheese and lamb chops from neighboring farms.

Road to Hana

The road from Maui's Kahului Airport to Hana displays every feature you could ask for from a tropical paradise. What keeps this incredible area undeveloped and pristine is the tortuous 53-mile road and its 600 curves and 54 bridges. Under the best conditions it can take two to four hours to drive to Hana, but you'll be tempted by countless stops along the way, so your best bet is to stay the night in Hana before attempting to navigate the road back.

Along the way expect to see countless roadside waterfalls, glimpses of magic coves and black sand beaches, and a lush canopy of exotic rainforest rich with guava, papaya, bird of paradise, ginger and heliconia. Quaint old-style Hana is a worthy destination, especially if you have time to sojourn down the road to Haleakala National Park to visit the Seven Sacred Pools, a lovely series of pools and waterfalls plunging down a narrow gorge into the ocean.

A rainbow over the Wailua Valley with the ocean in the background: a view from the road to Hana.
© Ann Cecil Lonely Planet Images.

Oahu’s North Shore

If you imagine that the islands are a place to surf, then Oahu’s North Shore is "the" mecca of all meccas. Whether you want to climb on a board yourself or simply gawk at the whole spectacle, you will find no finer location in the world, nor so many surfing beaches in a row. Sunset Beach, Ehukai Beach and the Banzai Pipeline are names that haunt the dreams of the foremost pro-surfers in the world. And during the winter, waves that roll in from Alaska crash against the North Shore with legendary 50-foot faces.

If surfing isn't your passion, there are many other reasons to drive the 17-mile Kamehameha Highway as it meanders the shoreline from Haleiwa to Laie. Haleiwa itself was the summer playground of Queen Liliuokalani, Hawaii's last reigning monarch, and is now a thriving historic, cultural and scenic district. Just a few miles up the coast, stop by the Waimea Valley Audubon Center for hiking, bird watching, or a visit to the world-class botanical garden at Waimea Falls. Perched on the hill above is Pu'u O Mahuka Heiau, a peaceful religious site sacred to Hawaiians for nearly 400 years.

To fully understand Polynesian and South Pacific cultures stop at the Polynesian Cultural Center in Laie for an experience you will never forget. Here you will be treated to the island's most authentic "luau," a fantastic blend of song, music, food and flowers. Or you can visit the seven native villages and see the largest Polynesian night show in the world, an enthusiastic award-winning spectacle with 100 performers sharing traditional songs, dances and ceremonial storytelling.

Quiet Kauai

The serene beauty of Kauai's north shore can only be reached by following the island's perimeter highway around the eastern shore. This journey to a dead end eliminates most of the tourist crowds even though Kauai's north shore has been called "a slice of heaven." Many visitors head for the half-moon shaped Hanalei Bay where the 1958 musical "South Pacific" was filmed, and especially to Lumahai Beach, the most photographed beach on Kauai.

Hiking buffs, however, continue to the road's end to pick up the Kalalau Trail in Haena State Park. This is the only land-based access to one of the most stunning landscapes in the world, the Na Pali coast, where impossibly jagged 4,000-foot cliffs plunge directly into crashing waves. The 11-mile trail is a serious hiking challenge, but even a peek down the trail will take your breath away.

Bio: David Lukas is a professional naturalist who lives just outside Yosemite National Park. He leads nature tours and writes about the plants and animals of places ranging from Borneo and Tanzania to Nova Scotia

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