By China Williams

During the summer months, maritime merriment is afloat on the Chesapeake Bay, the country's largest estuary. To help you get your sea legs, follow this Chesapeake Bay guide that navigates the brawny port city of Baltimore and the tony sailboat capital of Annapolis, where family fun can be found both on and off the water.

Aquarium on harbor. Baltimore, Maryland.
© Corinne Humphrey. Lonely Planet Images.

Baltimore

Boat lovers will be amazed by Baltimore's busy harbor, which has supported shipping since the 1700s. Today this deep-water portion of the Patapsco River, which feeds into the Chesapeake Bay, is abuzz with watercraft: from the red-and-black tug boats to the massive container ships flying foreign flags. And visitors get a front-row view of this working port from the Inner Harbor, once a light industrial district that now boasts tons of family-friendly attractions.

Kids of all ages will be delighted with the renowned National Aquarium, at the eastern end of the Inner Harbor. The aquarium is home to sharks, rays, turtles, reef fish, and a shy electric eel. Daily dolphin shows introduce visitors to the animals' amazing acrobatics and awards one lucky audience member a chance to issue commands just like a trainer.

Get to the aquarium early, especially on weekends, as this is one of Baltimore's most popular and crowded attractions. If the initial displays are too busy, take the elevator to the third floor and visit the Atlantic Coral Reef tank, which is often easier to navigate despite the crowds.

Afterwards, stroll the waterfront promenade, which parallels the harbor and winds past stores, restaurants, and floating museums housed in retired ships. The U.S.S. Constellation cuts an elegant profile with its old-fashioned timber sail masts; it was the last of the U.S. Navy's tall ships and is the only vessel from the Civil War that is still afloat.

Boat-building technology and maritime history is further explained onboard a World War II-era submarine and a Coast Guard cutter, part of the Baltimore Maritime Museum. If your kids are too young to enjoy an onboard tour, you can still get close enough to marvel at the boats. Keep an eye out for the unofficial attraction of the Inner Harbor: the TrashCat skimmer boat, which is used by the city to sweep up debris and garbage that collects in the harbor.

Sitting in a quiet corner behind the aquarium is a Chesapeake Bay-style lighthouse — part of the Baltimore Maritime Museum — known as a "screwpile," because it rests upon a series of pylons that were screwed into the bay's marshy soil. Unlike the tower lighthouses that line the coast, the bay lighthouses are squat circular buildings that sit atop spider-leg-like supports. This particular example marked a sandy shoal in Baltimore's harbor for 133 years.

Sailboat show at marina. Annapolis, Maryland.
© Dennis Johnson. Lonely Planet Images.

The Inner Harbor has the big-ticket attractions but the best place to observe the comings and goings of the ships is from the waterfront park at Fort McHenry. This star-shaped fort at the mouth of the harbor was the sight of a War of 1812 battle with the British that inspired Francis Scott Key to pen what would later become the national anthem. The federally managed park offers historic exhibits and tours from the visitor center.

To get to Fort McHenry, don't waste your time in downtown traffic. Instead hop aboard Ed Kane's Water Taxi from the Inner Harbor.

Annapolis

A short drive away from Baltimore is the quiet state capital of Annapolis, with its picturesque downtown nestled beside Chesapeake Bay. The narrow brick sidewalks are lined with colonial-era clapboard houses, including the William Paca House & Garden museum (410-267-7619, 186 Prince George Street), once the residence of a signatory of the Declaration of Independence. The town's history and architecture can be explored independently or as a part of a guided tour with a colonial-costumed docent through the Historic Annapolis Foundation.

No matter where you start your tour, gravity will eventually pull you to the city dock where the sailboats come to pose. Follow the dock all the way to the end for a glimpse of the city's favorite pastime: sailing in the sparkling bay. You'll have to take to the sea to appreciate the city's interconnectedness on the water. Rivers and creeks bisect the neighborhoods, allowing residents to park their boats in their backyards. Visitors can join public sail tours aboard a 74-foot schooner offered by Schooner Woodwind. For paddlers, head to the aptly named Quiet Waters Park in the old watermen's village of Eastport, where kayaks and canoes can be rented to explore the South River.

Adding to Annapolis' nautical ambiance are the white uniformed midshipmen enjoying a weekend leave from the downtown campus of the U.S. Naval Academy, which educates and commissions officers of the Navy and Marine Corps. The academy is open to the public and offers guided tours from the visitor center at Gate 1 off King George Street.

Like most bay towns, Annapolis is home to a beloved crab shack. Just a wooden deck on a picturesque creek, Cantler's specializes in bushels of blue crabs, harvested locally and generously powdered in Maryland's signature Old Bay seasoning. Polish off the day with this labor-intensive meal as dusk settles all around.

China Williams is a freelance writer who attended college in Annapolis and now lives in Baltimore with her family. She and her two-year old often head to Baltimore's harbor to cheer the boats and spend rainy days at the aquarium.

The content provided by Lonely Planet Publications, while as accurate as possible, is provided "as is." Neither we, nor Lonely Planet Publications, accept any responsibility for any loss, injury or inconvenience resulting from this information. You should verify critical information (like visas, health and safety) before you travel.