East to West: Across America's Underbelly

By Aaron Anderson

Posted July 10, 2008, at 1 p.m.

Entire books have been written about the Great American road trip and there is no question that traveling cross-country by car is the best way to see the United States. But to experience more than just the lofty peaks, famous celluloid cities, wide open plains, golden arches and rest stops that have come to symbolize road tripping in this country, you'll need to get off the beaten path — or more specifically the Interstate. Find America's soul crossing the crispy-fried South or enchanted West on scenic byways; embrace her cultural mysteries at a Midwestern rodeo or the Flora-Bama (that's Florida and Alabama for those of you not in the know) mullet-tossing festival; discover her inner beauty and personality in off-the-map state parks and wilderness areas, in beaten-up towns and glittering cities.

Austin city skyline reflected in Town Lake.
© Richard Cummins Lonely Planet Images.

There are many ways you can traverse the U.S.A. This route crosses the underbelly of America, through the southernmost reaches of the country. It strays off the highway as much as possible, but sometimes President Eisenhower's clever transportation solution — the U.S. Interstate system — is still the best way to travel.

Mullet Tossing Along the Gulf Coast

Start your east-west odyssey in an out-of-the way destination: Apalachicola. It's a picture-perfect town along Highway 98 on Florida's Gulf Coast. Winding along the coast toward Alabama, scenic Highway 98 takes you through some of the most gorgeous scenery in this part of the state. Plan your trip to hit Perdido Key on the Florida-Alabama state line for the annual Interstate Mullet Toss in April — a good time to travel through the South, as it's not too hot. Despite its name, this festival doesn't actually have anything to do with donning a "business in the front, party in the back" hairdo. Instead, this event involves pitching the mullet fish as far as possible into Alabama from Florida. The event has become a good excuse for a party, and showcases the quirky side of this region including plenty of colorful locals.

Seal Beach Pier at sunset. Los Angeles.
© Richard Cummins Lonely Planet Images.

Cross the Crispy Fried South Into Cajun Country

Hook up with I-10 in Alabama and follow the Interstate west through Mississippi and into the swamps and bayous of Louisiana. This region took a brutal beating after Hurricane Katrina slammed ashore less than three years ago, but not even a major hurricane could keep New Orleans down. Today the "Big Easy" is back in full swing, delivering wonderful jazz, America's best Mardi Gras celebration and amazing Cajun cooking.

Austin and the Texas Hill Country

Cross the Texas State line on I-10 and continue to the Austin city limits. Stop and listen to some fantastic live music in one of America's most progressive young cities located in the heart of a traditionally conservative state. From Austin, travel through bucolic Texas hill country, dotted with small towns that show the influence of its early German and Czech settlers.

Detour onto Route 46 about 45 miles south of Austin to visit Gruene for some good BBQ and a little boot-scooting boogie. The entire place is on the national historic register. Gruene is home to the oldest dance hall (circa 1878) in Texas, which still hosts live country, Cajun and folk-rock acts nightly in summer.

Jump back on I-10 and head west across the belly of Texas to Fort Stockton, where you'll reach the junction with Highway 385. Head south to jaw-dropping Big Bend National Park. After you've spent some time exploring, follow Route 170 west along the Mexican border to Highway 67 — the entire area boasts spectacular natural beauty. Head north again, and stop in Marfa. The town is one of the country's hottest new art destinations, filled with galleries galore, good restaurants and funky boutiques — for both clothing and sleeping.

Go West

Continue on I-10 across Texas until you hit Highway 285 north near the New Mexico border. It takes you straight to alien headquarters, Roswell, N.M., which is worth a stop for the kitsch factor, but just a short one. Afterward, head across the rather barren scenery of southern New Mexico, jumping back on I-10 heading into Arizona. Tucson is a vibrant old Southwestern town known for its delicious Mexican food, sunny skies, desert landscape and awesome Saguaro cacti — go hiking in Saguaro National Park west of the city. End your road trip on the beach in Los Angeles. America's ultimate fantasy city is everything Hollywood has led you to dream.

Bio: Aaron Anderson is a freelance travel journalist and guidebook author. He co-wrote Lonely Planet's "Washington DC" city guide and "Madagascar & the Comoros." He has also contributed to the "Western Europe," "Thailand" and "Europe on a shoestring" guides.

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